Transcript 逐字稿譯文

 

旁白：在熱鬧歡騰的宴會場合，一道道美味佳餚端上桌，還能感受到料理剛出爐的熱氣，
               這是在辦桌時最讓人期待的時刻。

Narrator: In a noisy banquet occasion, delicious dishes are served on the table. You can feel the                              fresh heat from them. This is the most anticipated moment.

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旁白：在一旁的廚房裡，有一位衣著簡便、不時穿梭在廚房工作團隊中，品嚐料理的味道、                確認品質、拼出菜進度。他是這個團隊的靈魂人物，林明燦師傅。

Narrator: In the kitchen, there is a casually dressed person who shuttles in the cooking team. He                             tastes the dishes, confirms the quality, and pushes forward dishes. He is the chef, Ming                           Tsan Lin, the soul of this team.

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林明燦：今天就是人家那個社區年終晚會，有 27 桌，一桌 15 人。辦桌不管你價錢多還是                           少，一定要有八大菜，人家才吃得飽。
Mr. Lin: Today is the community’s year-end party. There are 27 tables, each with 15 people. In                             catering, regardless of the price being high or low, there should be eight major dishes, so                       the customer won’t be hungry.

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旁白：普遍來說，每次的辦桌都是由總鋪師規劃菜色，並組織臨時工作團隊。一道菜首先交                由烹飪師傅料理，在大鍋中豪邁地翻炒，一次炒出十幾盤，再讓負責處理雜務的水腳                端上桌。看似平凡的一道菜，卻是整個團隊的心血。

Narrator: Generally, the head chef will decide the dishes, and organize a temporary work team. A                           dish is first handed over to the chef, and he will fry foods in a large pot, making a dozen or                     more plates at a time. Then the helpers will serve dishes on the table. A dish might seem                         ordinary, but it takes the efforts of the whole team.

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林明燦：我現在是在準備那個辦桌的乾貨。因為我們叫乾貨，不可能說叫他送到現場。因為                     我們一定要先叫回家，放在倉庫，不然你叫人家直接送到現場很麻煩。這叫做辦桌                     事前的工作。

Mr. Lin: I am now preparing the dry goods because it is impossible to ask for the delivery on the                            catering day. We must bring dry goods home, and put them in the warehouse.                                           Otherwise, it will be troublesome to deliver goods to the banquet. This is the

                      pre-arrangement work of catering.

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旁白：這天林師傅接的是晚上的宴席，但才早上8點鐘，他和團隊就到辦桌地點，進行事前                    料理準備。在戶外的流動式廚房，搬出大鍋、拿起廚具、趕緊洗菜切菜，1 秒鐘都不                  浪費。這種戶外開火的宴請文化，正是辦桌的重要特色。

Narrator: Chef Lin is in charge of a banquet tonight. But it’s still 8 o’clock in the morning, he and                         his team have started preparing. At the outdoor mobile kitchen, they move out big pots,                         pick up kitchenware, wash and cut vegetables quickly. No time to waste. This kind of                             outdoor banquet is an important feature of catering.

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女水腳：你假如戶外沒有搭，因為家裡的廚房都很小阿，活動中心都蠻貴的，那你假如搭在                     自己的門口比較便宜，師傅就費用沒有用那麼多，他就會花在那個食材上，食材就                     會比較好。

Female helper: If you don’t do it outdoors, kitchens at home are too small, and activity centers are                                   quite expensive. But if you cater in your place, the expense won’t be that high, and                                     the chef can distribute more expenses on the ingredients, so the ingredients will be                                   better.

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旁白：除了準備宴客的料理，總鋪師還要展現純熟的刀工，將蔬果雕刻出精緻的花樣，點綴                料理，達到色香味俱全。

Narrator: In addition to preparing dishes, the head chef also needs a proficient cutting skill to carve                       fruits and vegetables into exquisite patterns, making a perfect look of food.

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旁白：更特別的是，根據每位總鋪師手藝的不同，久而久之會發展出自己的私房菜餚，稱之                 為「手路菜」。而林師父則繼承了同樣是總鋪師父親的好手藝，重現三、四十年前的                 古早味。

Narrator: What’s more, with different craftsmanship, over time, each chef will develop his own                               private dishes, called “tshiú lōo tshài” (homemade dishes). Chef Lin just inherited his                             father’s skill, and reproduced the old taste since 30 to 40 years ago.

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林明燦：每次辦桌的菜單下來，至少有一兩道是外面吃不到的，都是爸爸傳承下來的。像那                     個撒嬌雞，它裡面有甘草粉，所以你吃下去，它會回甘，很甘甜很好吃。

Mr. Lin: Every time in the menu, there are at least one or two new dishes not available outside.                             They are all passed down from my father. Like the “Sa-jiao-ji” chicken, it has licorice                               powder. So when you taste it, it will be sweet. Very sweet and delicious.

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男賓客：我們發現這隻撒嬌雞他好像有一些中藥的湯底，然後雞肉吃起來的口感，有點像放                     山雞又有點像肉雞的混合，但是口感蠻特別的，全桌的人都很喜歡。然後像這樣子                     的餐宴，大概是今年、去年、前年這樣比較起來，今年是最好吃的一次。

Male Guest: We found that the “Sa-jiao-ji” chicken soup seems to have some Chinese herbs inside.                           The taste of chicken is a bit like a mixture of pheasant and chicken. But the taste is quite                         special, everyone likes it. A feast like this, compared with the ones last year, and those                             two years ago, this year is the best.

 

旁白：雖然擁有精湛的廚藝，然而現今總鋪師大多已年過半百，而且鮮少有年輕學徒注入。                加上現在人生活改變，對於飲食擁有更多選擇，餐廳、飯店都是辦桌的競爭對手。辦                桌這項在地文化，正面臨失傳的困境。

Narrator: Though most of the chefs have superb cooking skills, they are over half a hundred years                          old. Very few young apprentices want to learn this. Moreover, now people’s lives have                            changed. There are more choices for food. Restaurants and hotels are both competitors.                        So, the local catering culture is facing the problem of being lost.

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林明燦：現在辦桌人口比較少了，年輕人結婚的都比較少。人已經少了，然後飯店又有辦喜                     事、宴會廳，什麼都有了，所以分攤了，所以外燴會越來越少。

Mr. Lin: Now fewer people choose catering for wedding banquets, and fewer young people are                             getting married. The customers become fewer. And there are wedding events and                                     banquet halls in a hotel. You can have everything there, so catering has become less and                         less.

 

女賓客：優缺點來說，辦桌可能都是會在一個公共的區域，你沒有辦法去要求它的衛生管                           理。因為可能它都在戶外，對於衛生這一塊，可能餐廳會控管的比較好。

Female guest: In terms of advantages and disadvantages, catering is often held in a public area. You                               can't ask for hygiene management. Because of the “outdoors” feature, for hygiene,                                   restaurants may have a better control.

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旁白：在台灣，不論大人、小孩大多都有吃過辦桌的經驗。雖然在棚下同桌共餐的景象現在                已經不常見，但這卻是你我共同的記憶。

Narrator: In Taiwan, both adults and children have experiences in catering. Though the scene of                            dining at a table under a shed is less common now, this is our common memory.

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淡江新聞 陳照宇 吳祐寧 袁錦揚 採訪報導  Tamkang News